- 8 large dried shiitake mushrooms (3/4 ounces)
- 2 cups boiling-hot water
- 1 pound ground pork butt (not lean)
- 1 large bunch scallions (white and pale green parts only), finely chopped
- 6 large fresh water chestnuts, peeled and finely chopped, or 10 canned whole water chestnuts, rinsed, drained, and finely chopped
- 1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine (preferably Shaoxing) or medium-dry Sherry
- 2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
- 2 tablespoons soy sauce
- 1 1/4 teaspoons salt
- 1 (2 1/2- to 3-pound) head Napa cabbage
- 2/3 cup peanut or vegetable oil
- 1 tablespoon cornstarch
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (16 fluid ounces)
- Special equipment : a well-seasoned 14-inch flat-bottomed wok
- Accompaniment: steamed white rice
- Cover mushrooms with boiling-hot water (2 cups) in a bowl and let stand 30 minutes, then squeeze excess water from mushrooms and reserve 1 cup mushroom-soaking liquid (discard remainder or reserve for another use). Discard mushroom stems and cut caps into very thin slices.
- Meanwhile, mix together pork, scallions, water chestnuts, rice wine, sesame oil, sugar, 1 tablespoon ginger, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a large bowl with your hands. Gather together pork mixture and throw against bottom or side of bowl 5 or 6 times to firm texture, then chill, covered, until ready to use.
- Remove and reserve 4 large cabbage leaves. Halve cabbage head lengthwise, then cut out and discard core. Cut cabbage halves crosswise into 2-inch-wide pieces.
- Heat wok over high heat until a drop of water evaporates instantly. Swirl 2 tablespoons peanut oil to coat bottom and sides of wok, then stir-fry mushrooms, half of cabbage, and remaining tablespoon ginger until cabbage begins to wilt, 1 to 2 minutes. Add remaining cabbage and 3/4 teaspoon salt and stir-fry until all of cabbage has begun to wilt, about 3 minutes. Add reserved soaking liquid (1 cup) and continue stir-frying until cabbage is wilted, about 3 minutes. Transfer mixture to a 4-quart clay pot or a 4- to 5-quart heavy pot, arranging evenly on bottom. Wipe wok clean with paper towels.
- Stir together cornstarch, pepper, and remaining tablespoon soy sauce in a small bowl until smooth.
- Divide pork mixture into quarters, then coat your hands with some of cornstarch mixture. Form 4 large meatballs, transferring each as formed to a large plate and then recoating your hands.
- Heat wok over high heat until a drop of water evaporates instantly, then pour in remaining peanut oil (enough to measure a scant 1/4 inch in wok). Reduce heat to moderately high and gently arrange meatballs in wok. Fry meatballs, turning gently with tongs or a slotted spoon, until deep golden on all sides, about 5 minutes total (if meatballs stick to wok, add more oil). Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain, then arrange on top of cabbage in pot. Add broth, then cover meatballs completely with reserved 4 cabbage leaves. Bring liquid just to a boil, then reduce heat and gently simmer, covered, 1 hour. (Check occasionally to be sure liquid is not boiling vigorously.) Season broth with salt, then move large cabbage leaves around side of pot to resemble a lion's mane. Serve in individual shallow bowls.