- 10 dried bay leaves
- 2 tablespoons black peppercorns
- 2 tablespoons ground turmeric
- 1/4 cup unsweetened shredded coconut
- 1/2 head of cauliflower, broken into small florets
- 1/4 kabocha squash, cut into 1-inch pieces (about 2 cups)
- 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
- Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
- 1 small white onion, chopped
- 2 medium shallots, chopped
- 6 large garlic cloves, chopped
- 1 (3-inch) piece ginger, peeled, finely grated
- 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
- 2 (13.5-ounce) cans unsweetened coconut milk
- 1 cup sugarcane vinegar or distilled white vinegar, divided
- 4 chicken legs, drumsticks and thighs, separated
- 3 tablespoons (or more) honey
- Unsalted, roasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas), thinly sliced Fresno chiles, and sliced scallion (for serving)
- A layer of cheesecloth
- Place bay leaves and peppercorns in center of cheesecloth and tie closed with kitchen twine; set sachet aside. Toast turmeric in a dry small skillet over medium-low heat, stirring often, just until fragrant (be careful not to let it brown), about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
- Cook coconut in same skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until burnt (not browned: burnt), about 3 minutes. Grind in a spice mill or with a mortar and pestle or finely chop. Transfer to another plate.
- Heat oven to 375°F. Toss cauliflower and squash on a large rimmed baking sheet with 1 Tbsp. oil to coat; season with salt and pepper. Roast vegetables, tossing occasionally, until browned and tender, 30–40 minutes.
- Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Add onion, shallots, garlic, and ginger and cook, stirring often, until golden brown and very fragrant, 8–10 minutes. Add red pepper flakes and cook, stirring often, just until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in toasted turmeric, coconut milk, and 3/4 cup vinegar. Bring to a boil and cook until liquid is reduced by about one-third, 20–30 minutes.
- Meanwhile, prepare a grill for medium-high heat (or heat a grill pan over medium-high). Season chicken with salt and pepper and grill, turning occasionally, just until skin is charred (chicken will not be cooked through at this point), 8–10 minutes.
- Add chicken and reserved sachet to turmeric sauce. Cook, partially covered, until chicken is tender, 60–80 minutes. Stir honey and remaining 1/4 cup vinegar in a small bowl until honey is dissolved; add to braise, then add roasted cauliflower and squash. Taste and season with more salt or honey as needed.
- Divide adobo among bowls and top with burnt coconut, pumpkin seeds, chiles, and scallion.
- Adobo can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Reheat gently before serving.